Im Caught by Murphys Law, as always change your belts in time!! - From Gunter

[Kylie]

This is from Gunter who would like to share with us about his repairs from worn out parts. He has a 98 Esprit V8GT. :) Thanks for sharing Gunter and I will keep posting up yr progress if you dont get here first. Warning some of the pics are large.

Aug 25th

This weekend was filled with joy of driving, some fun with friends and 'cultural sight seeing'. But after 814km there was that typical 'plop and rattle':

http://www.imagenetz.de/f4b717a25/BILD0262.JPG.html http://www.imagenetz.de/f4b717a25/BILD0262.JPG.html

I was just too lazy, let it stay until next month and an other month. Have totally ignored that there is now 111019km on the counter !! As always: Who has not enough work can bring himself into big trouble... .

It looks as if the 60th celebration is transformed into a "parts pic-up" now

August 26th

The 'pain' is relative, as it was my fault. In order to the rebuild history of that engine in first owners hands, it is now more than 11000km over the recommended distance. And as mentioned in the other treat, i have noticed some serious wear on the toothed belt wheels. there was a sign of trouble before -but what should i say, its my style of risky life .

The bad taste is only that i had an new set of belts an pulleys at home . It was just planned to do it as an normal belt-job in the end of the year. Anyway, i have other priority's (the studies, exams and written test forms ..) to attend !

August 27th

the 'official' story from the used car dealer is that my engine had an typical belt fault [intermediate drive srew] with around 38-40k km in first owners hand. But what i can't say for sure is that all related parts where replaced (as documented in the bill) .

Anyway, the toothed belt pulleys are all worn, especially on that LH side that is split now. I guess that the higher wear of that 'pitting' on the surface had killed that belt . 71000km (or more, who knows...) with one belt set is much in relation to the recommended distance. I think 90.000km would be better , but that is possible only with toothed belt pulleys in perfect condition (Lotus tested an V8 on long distance... !?)

Ask Mike Sekinger about that, he told me in the other treat that he has also noticed that type of wear on one of the engines he rebuilds actually.

I think all of you can image in what type of "suboptimal" condition i have to fight... (watch those shelves on the ground). It was impossible to move the crane with the complete engine-gearbox unit on the concrete stones . It means one whole day for dismantle of all pipes an hoses, rusted screws and that stuff. Today it was mostly to find the right way to lift it up (i fabricated my engine lift points [as those are not fitted on my engine]

http://www.imagenetz.de/f4a3108d3/BILD0264.JPG.html

I 'lost' the older oil-cooler pipe, one of the air condition pipes from the right engine bay, both engine mounts and several other rusted/weared parts... . As i said earlier: it was planned to lift the engine out -OK, not under that circumstances
http://www.imagenetz.de/fb6d5a890/BILD0265.JPG.html



The next pictures are for those of you who want to see how an "avers type of gearshift system" looks -or what it causes. In other words what types of wear can cause the typical problems with interrupted clutch engagement: as some know, my clutch/gearbox assembly is an combination of parts from two other V8-cars. The clutch spline is still the one with the steps on it (from the season i had the "twist/spinning friction-plate fault") . The other shows an weared release bearing -with an big step on the fork area. Bud as it has two sections, i can 're-use' the other side... .
http://www.imagenetz.de/fbaa7b104/BILD0269.JPG.html

http://www.imagenetz.de/ff3b99d7c/BILD0271.JPG.html


August 29th

next pictures:
-in relation to the note about the exhaust crack lines and heat shields (in other treats)
http://www.imagenetz.de/f1ccec381/BILD0278.JPG.html
http://www.imagenetz.de/ff68f5dac/BILD0280.JPG.html
http://www.imagenetz.de/f842f271c/BILD0282.JPG.html
-and some for the mentioned 'pitting'
http://www.imagenetz.de/ff91278c1/BILD0272.JPG.html
http://www.imagenetz.de/f25aed9e2/BILD0275.JPG.html

PS. especially for my German friends: no, there is nothing to worry about - 'Mitleid' is not the one that i deserve. You know that i like to look inside of every machinery. OK-That special situation is not the perfect cause ....

August 30th

What type of socked do i need for the cylinder head screw, it looks as if it is an *Torx*-type, bud a bit conical on top !?
Other question: i never noticed an cooling system leak/water loss into the sump. The re-build history/bill from the middle of 2001 shows an 'liner pull'+'reseal' during the engine rebuild [it was an primary belt drive/idler pulley fault]. Done by an former major Lotus / Luxury car dealer in Germany. Can i expect that the right sealin compound was used !? Otherwise it would meant an complete engine rebuild-just to get sure there comes never an fault like the liner /water loss problem. I planned to let the RH head stay on the block !

pictures titled: *Field Operation Services*, *the beginning*, *the end* .*LH-belt*,*Exhaust .8 bend*,*Inlet .7 bend*,

note: the RH belt shows some serious wear between the teeth's section, bud the cam belt-pulley shows only light damage. The other side shows in opposite to that -serious wear on the belt pulley, bud much rubber between the belt teeth's !? just curious ....



next on the list is an compression check, just to be sure that the others have no problems

*internal note: as this seems to be an longer 'project' -please, can an mod move it to the "projects&restoration" if necessary
(warning large files)
http://www.imagenetz.de/f5fecd21d/BILD0284.JPG.html
http://www.imagenetz.de/f99181b91/BILD0285.JPG.html
http://www.imagenetz.de/fe9555a32/BILD0286.JPG.html
http://www.imagenetz.de/f8cc825c7/BILD0288.JPG.html
http://www.imagenetz.de/ffff599d8/BILD0289.JPG.html
http://www.imagenetz.de/f7bcb9b8b/BILD0290.JPG.html

[Kylie]

Sept 1st

here is an picture of the twin plate clutch. If you look closer than you can see that the tooth profile is changed , or in other words it has an 'orientation'.
http://www.imagenetz.de/f69069232/BILD0295.JPG.html
In order to what i have learned in the university Renault did designed an misconception. That type of profile is not recommended for an sliding & twist motion. Bud the 'sliding' (for the clutch engagement, for example) means there must be some 'free play'. That on the other hand produced (together with the twist/turn from the rotating crankshaft) an steady wear on the shoulder.

I hope that after the engine "rebuild" there is enough money left for an spline change/upgrade to an other profile (probably Ford !?)

Ohh, and yes -i noticed the 'across orientation' -and that "1=4 /4=1" for the ignition coils....

http://www.imagenetz.de/f967eb267/BILD0298.JPG.html

It's always good to have an documentation of such remarkable points




OK, the belts are a bit small -compared with our belts in the commercial diesel 'light truck' class. But i bet if the 'pitting' on the pulleys would not be there they can last longer... .

With a bit luck , and the right tool i can release the headscrews and lift the head. As far as it looks today there is two complete inlet and two complete exhaust valve sets that i need. I know an local company/engine-workshop who can refit an cut the new valve seats an do the other head work (valve guides etc.).

And if the dimensions from camshaft journal diameter and bore is still in good state it could get a lot cheaper. I hope i can reuse the head !!!

I will replace the hydraulic tappets anyway, so some work on the heads was already planned before... .

If the piston/liner assembly had got damage than it is definitive an money problem !

Update: the compression check-up does not work. Not enough power to idle, (bud i can turn the engine an complete revolution by hand). Have no tools for an leak test -so i hope the others are in an good shape.

latest news: head is down, i can see possibly one broken valve guide, four valves bend , light damage in the piston crown of two pistons. Parts of rusty jelly stuff (that can only be the liner sealant -covered in rusty water from the cheap produced radiator in front of the car !?)

One cylinder does have some sort of combustion problem (leaking injector or something else -abnormal carbon deposits, looks like an diesel engine)

more pictures as soon as the camera want to work again

Sept 2

http://www.imagenetz.de/fa3101d4e/BILD0302.JPG.html
http://www.imagenetz.de/f9d45c43d/BILD0303.JPG.html
http://www.imagenetz.de/fec76c8ef/BILD0304.JPG.html
http://www.imagenetz.de/f5736c2fb/BILD0306.JPG.html
http://www.imagenetz.de/fac8328b6/BILD0307.JPG.html
http://www.imagenetz.de/faf782f93/BILD0310.JPG.html


Sept 3

Piston from Nb. 5 itself looks strange. Bud what makes me worry is that massive sealant all around the liners. Was that an "Viel hilft viel" from position of Auto-Becker Düsseldorf !? Or is it an sign of an beginning leak/broken sealer compound.

Anyway- i have to fabricate some clamps for the liners . To rotate the crankshaft and/or to fix the liners in position for some hours (after an 'reseal'). And most important -an construction to hold the engine on its rear side. The engine is still parked on the sump without the head there is no good point to lift up, and i cant turn it upside down ... .

The locating/setting pins for the cams are an easy DIY (i hope so..), and also the 'crank pin' tool. What i don't know by now is how that timing/mirror image -disk on the front auxiliary drive pulley looks !?

6th Sept

Even for me as an professional it is an "step by step" learning by doing. Note my DIY tools (it took me longer to pull the bend valves out [especially as there was not much room to compress the valve springs further and release the Collet's] -than to fabricate that tool -under 1hour for the tool, and the half day for all 16 valves ).

pictures called: *modern art*, *exhaust 8 -no broken seats/guides visible*, *inlet 7 -one broken valveguide*
http://www.imagenetz.de/f688f8342/BILD0311.JPG.html
http://www.imagenetz.de/f56c50bf7/BILD0313.JPG.html
http://www.imagenetz.de/fa9c1beff/BILD0315.JPG.html

Sept 10th

some kind of 'industrial archeology of modern century'
http://www.imagenetz.de/f9cfdb9e5/BILD0320.JPG.html
http://www.imagenetz.de/f7aa4eca8/BILD0323.JPG.html

Sept 11

with a bit luck i can pic up some parts on the way to Hethel. Bud for now it is mostly an 'take apart' of 'old rusted and worn crap'

And there are other thing to do at this car now. I have bought polybushes from R&B, fitted only the main bushes in rear (that saved my German 'MOT'). Now i can lift up all four corners and replace the front bushes also, try some powder coat options for wishbones and roll bar, replace the rusted tanks and the radiator. Ahh oh and there are three written exams left from last semester -so It's a lot of work !!


PS. if someone had an picture/JPG/ image file-scan of that mysterious "timing disk" send me :

weniger.rehbruecke@freenet.de

thanks!!

Sept 18th
here you can see what happened with my rusty bids an pieces, while i was in the south of England to drink some beer with friends
http://www.imagenetz.de/f3301004e/BILD0363.JPG.html
the citric acid did its work, the only thing i have done afterwards was brush it in soap water (to neutralize the acid)

And thank to *superdavelotus* and Mike Sekinger, i managed to met Pam D. east of London. So I've got some of the parts now ...
http://www.imagenetz.de/f9a0ce489/BILD0364.JPG.html

Sept 21

picture of the day:
http://www.imagenetz.de/f7ba890c8/BILD0368.JPG.html
the workshop book refers to an valve guide insertion overhang of 8.8-9mm

Inlet valve guide is 43mm long, so an measured overhang of 34.2mm with the guide fitted in the handmade calibration-/insertion tool should be good enough... .

Sept 24th

So the fitments of valves (as long as i can get some) and the one valve guide can start in October,maybe.

What i can't say by now is: Would it be an good plan to open the whole engine -measure all parts (piston,liners, piston rings, crankshaft and so on) with the risk to discover more problems(worn bearings/shells etc.). Or should i not touch that functioning system and replace only the broken parts in LH head.

Sept 25

Hello Günter,

See the Home Made Timing Disc http://www.machinerycleanery.com/DWClockwise.htm (scroll down) for an example, Good luck with your exams.

Freek

Sept 30th

http://www.imagenetz.de/f48dfed0d/BILD0378.JPG.html

[WayneB]

Sorry to see your engine in that state Gunter.

I have never seen pulleys corroded like that , I guess it isnt common over here as we dont tend to drive our cars in the cold, wet winter climates.

I can see how the corrosion would chew up a belt though and cause it to prematirely fail.

Your carbon build up on one cylinder looks like she was getting some oil into the cylinder , either down a valve guide or via the rings.

When I usually see one like that the others are not far behind.

If it was my engine, I would strip it completely down and go right through it fixing whatever needs doing, that way you are not gambling that the liners will continue to seal and the oil problem will not worsen.

I dont think it will be a cheap exercise , but you will learn alot from it.

[Günter]

..we will see how far it goes in the end. Depends on my studies , the money that must be keept for the 'student apprentice' time in Hethel ..and much more. :thumbup:

For now I'm happy that Kylie takes care about the updates for all of you :wave:

Thanks for that :flowers:

it goes further mid October