Lotus 1971 John Player Special

[bobbythejudge]

canceled message, I purchased a '73 Europa TC Special

[Martin]

That is certainly an interesting thing to be looking for, and I wish you good luck in your search.

Welcome to the forum, if you would like...feel free to introduce yourself in the "Introductions" forum. You sound like quite the avid Lotus fanatic if you are looking for a 71 JPS! :)

[bobbythejudge]

I test drove one in '73 in Baltimore, Maryland and loved it. The only problem was the snow we got there would be 3-4 ft high sometimes and you would have to put the car up for the winter. I bought a new Porsche 914 at the time and it was a piece of JUNK. I traded it within the year for a Celica. Since those years gone by,I always thought about the JPS and now If possible would like to get one even if it needs work on it as it would give me something to do in my off time.

[Autocross7]

Not sure of the details, but I ran across this one... it is a 73' with JPS paint. might do for you?


http://www.lotus-europa.com/forsale.html


If you go down the page a bit you will see the JPS paint job. There are some photos...

1973 Europa JPS TCS - $18,600 (72112908R)
JPS # 43 (Has dash plaque and a letter from Lotus Cars LTD that identify it as a JPS)
43,000 miles, 6,000 since an engine re-build by Twin Cam Sportcars.
New Goodyear tires, Koni shocks, Imron paint.
Located in Oakton, Virginia
Contact Kevin Moehn


Also, this is a bit older...
1971 Lotus Europa: body in good shape, needs fender flares installed and minor repair to nose; new
stainless steel (SS) door hinges; chassis is new Spyder with front and rear wish-bone suspension; new
bearings throughout suspension; SS braided brake lines F&R; new GT6 calipers and rotors front; new
brake lines throughout; new SS water lines front to rear; replica of original seats in aluminum (need
upholstery); body is ready for repair with home-made rotisserie; engine is original Renault modified with
Gordini cross flow head with dual manifold and twin 45 DCOE Weber carburetors; new tubular exhaust
from Banks; aluminum valve cover and custom modified (to clear Spyder suspension) Aluminum sump
with wind age tray and baffles to keep oil around pick-up; new electronic ignition with rebuilt distributor;
complete engine rebuild by race shop; new lightened aluminum flywheel and clutch/pressure plate
assembly; bearing pressed on shift lever with new parts for shift mechanism front to rear; other new
parts too numerous to mention; well over $25,000 invested; asking $18,000. Contact Chris Taylor - cell a
706-616-4883 (GA) or email at ctaylor21@charter.net.




Cameron

[bobbythejudge]

Thanks for the info,bobbyjudge

[bobbythejudge]

Has anyone out there ever heard of a '73 JPS coming from the factory in 3 different colors? I was told by a seller that they came in White,Black and Bronze and with a 4 speed trans. This particular car I'm thinking about buying up until now, is a Brown or bronze color and has a JPS button in the middle of the steering wheel. My thinking is that whomever sold them this car put a JPS steering wheel on it and told them it was a JPS. Anyone with any info on this would be appreciated. Thanks, Bobbythejudge

[Autocross7]

Has anyone out there ever heard of a '73 JPS coming from the factory in 3 different colors? I was told by a seller that they came in White,Black and Bronze and with a 4 speed trans. This particular car I'm thinking about buying up until now, is a Brown or bronze color and has a JPS button in the middle of the steering wheel. My thinking is that whomever sold them this car put a JPS steering wheel on it and told them it was a JPS. Anyone with any info on this would be appreciated. Thanks, Bobbythejudge

Well, there is really no such thing as a 'factory type 47 JPS" as I understand it. These were trim packages sent to dealers for the big valve cars. The dealers would apply the JPS markings. Usually for obvious reasons, the decals etc... were put onto black Europas. However, it would not be unheard of for the trim to have made it onto any other color car. So, in short, all of the Europas in JPS trim were simply "trim jobs".

John Viviani at the Barber Motorsports Museum is really more of an expert on this matter than I am... I suppose you could call the museum and ask for him. Or e-mail him... geeno@supersevens.com he might take a bit to get back to you on e-mail.

Cameron

[bobbythejudge]

I am buying this '73 twin cam that I had wrote about earlier and need some advice if you all could give me. It has known carb problems when last started ,gas was leaking and the older couple put it up and has not been started in about 5 years. Besides rebuilding the carbs by a mechanic I know what would you all suggest to do before starting it up? I'll change the oil and probably replace the battery and any other fluids. Should a fuel pump kit be in line and what about the ignition system,can a electronic pointless system be installed on this car?I read where someone has done this on a '74. Any advice will certainly be appreciated,Thanks Bobby

[Autocross7]

I am buying this '73 twin cam that I had wrote about earlier and need some advice if you all could give me. It has known carb problems when last started ,gas was leaking and the older couple put it up and has not been started in about 5 years. Besides rebuilding the carbs by a mechanic I know what would you all suggest to do before starting it up? I'll change the oil and probably replace the battery and any other fluids. Should a fuel pump kit be in line and what about the ignition system,can a electronic pointless system be installed on this car?I read where someone has done this on a '74. Any advice will certainly be appreciated,Thanks Bobby

Well, I'd inspect the carbs before just rebuilding them. The floats and float needles might simply be stuck. My Austin Healey used to do that if it sat for any time. But there was no air leak by in the throttle and choke shafts... just sprayed out the float needles with some cleaner and the leak would stop and good again until sitting for a while.

Pull the spark plugs and put a breaker bar on the crank. If you can move it with no trouble you should be okay. There are yea-nay opinions regarding putting a bit of Marvel oil (or the like) down the spark plug holes if it is stuck or stiff. To each his own, but it has been done many times with decent results. Either way, make sure the motor spins free before you hit the starter.

The fuel filter should def. be replaced... the pump is prob still good. But, I would remove it and run some clean fuel through it... I have seen the plastic in line filters installed right before the line goes into the carbs on the Elans and Austin Healey's. It cannot hurt and they are cheap.

The points ignition can be replaced/upgraded with a Pertronix unit. The black box (Pertronix I unofficially) is very reliable and proven. I have one on my Esprit as my old Hall Effect coil crapped out some years ago. The Pertronix II red box does not seem to work with the Esprit, but it may with the Europa... try it. JAE has them and if the Pertronix II gives you any crap, they will take it back.

Cheers! and get ready for some real fun!
Cameron

[bobbythejudge]

Thanks for the comeback on starting up on checking out the carbs and fuel pump. I will do that and do appreciate any advice from everyone on this site, Bobby

[USAndretti42]

I would pull out the spark plugs and disconnect the coil and bump the engine over 5 or 6 times to get oil round the engine before any load is put on the bearings. By "bump" I mean flick the starter on and off for about half a second at a time. Then spin it over until pressure registers on the oil pressure gauge. Then you can try starting the engine.

After standing for so long the inside of the engine is going to be pretty dry.

[bobbythejudge]

Thanks for that info, I talked to Steve Smith at Twin cams in Florida yesterday and told me the same thing.I appreciate that. He was recommended on this site if I need to get the carbs rebuilt. The car will be delivered on Saturday and I will start checking it out, Thanks again,Bobby

[bobbythejudge]

Well this is an update on the '73 I bought from the church. I pulled the carbs and had a friend that knows about these carbs, said the float, needle and bowl was really dirty in the one that was throwing gas. He took them apart and cleaned them and I put them back on changed the plug wires as the mice ate the coating on them (I found 3 dead mice and their nests in the car) flushed the gas tanks pulled the plugs and cleaned them for now changed the oil with Castrol synthetic filled the radiator with antifreeze,the car had not been started in 5 years and after the initial bumping with the plugs out, it started right up and runs great. I need to adjust the brakes as I had the rear wheels off to loosen the parking brake as it was stuck. A new battery was put in and I drove it around my developement until it warmed up and just went out on the road and kick it a little and the car performed super! The previous owner told me it has a high performance clutch in it and the suspension is really tight. Next I'll get it painted black as it is a bronze and I prefer black in this car. Thanks again to you all for the advice on starting up this car and bringing it back to life, Bobby

[WayneB]

Sounds like you got yourself a good car there!:)

Was this the Europa you wanted with the 40 DCOE Weber carbs on it?

[Martin]

Bobby that is great! I'm glad to hear it has been a good experience. Can't wait to see some pictures someday.

[bobbythejudge]

On the carbs, they are Strombergs,I thought they were Webers in the pictures they sent it first looked that way. Right now we pulled off the front brakes as the calipers were sticking and we are soaking them now and cleaning them up. I believe I did get a pretty good deal considering the fact it was not started in 5 years and turned right over when everything was in place. I'll probably get it registered this week and take it to a custom paint shop my friend knows the owner and see what it will cost for a black paint job. I'm looking at the Phantom Black that Lotus has on it's newer cars or something similar with a rich deep translucent black. The interior needs some work on it as the seats have small unraveling of the seams from getting in and out. The wood dash is in pretty good shape and all it needs is a little finishing done to it. The glass is perfect no scratches or chips,windows work well, the trim around windshield needs changing later on it has a few crinkles in the trim, rest of the chrome is in great shape. When I wash it and polish it for now, I'll send some pics. Bobby

[Andy B]

I would pull out the spark plugs and disconnect the coil and bump the engine over 5 or 6 times to get oil round the engine before any load is put on the bearings. By "bump" I mean flick the starter on and off for about half a second at a time. Then spin it over until pressure registers on the oil pressure gauge. Then you can try starting the engine.

After standing for so long the inside of the engine is going to be pretty dry.

My Twin Cam is fitted with and aux electric oil pump, every time I switch the ignition on the pump runs until the pressure hits approx 15 lbs. It's good to know I have a little oil up top before firing the beast. Another handy item is a manual primer on the fuel pump, it saves that poor old starter cranking while trying to get the Webers full after being stationary for a week or more.
Good Luck.

[bobbythejudge]

So far the car has started almost instantly with nearly any cranking at all. The oil pump sounds like a good idea that I might consider installing later on. Bobby